SouthernEdition.com New Orleans: Not Merely a Destination, It's an Experience!

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New Orleans is different things to different people.

To world travelers, New Orleans is the most European city in the United States. To the nostalgic, it is a picturesque cityscape in which ancient trees shade historic houses (each with its own story to tell). To business executives and white collar workers, it is one of North America's foremost convention meccas. As for revelers and college-age prodigals, the Big Easy is an oasis where strait-laced inhibitions are often exchanged for frivolous activities like heavy drinking and even illicit rendezvous.

While some might liken the city to a modern-day Sodom and equate Hurricane Katrina's fury with the wrath of God in the Old Testament (somehow forgetting Matthew 5:45), it is interesting that the supposed-conservative Republican National Convention and the annual meeting of the Southern Baptist Convention were held in New Orleans in 1988 and 2001 respectively! The Big Easy has long attracted a varied group of tourists and conventioneers, proving there has to be more to it than Mardi Gras or Bourbon Street's nightlife.

In his book Why New Orleans Matters, Crescent City resident Tom Piazza wrote, "Music was my entry point into the world of the spirit that New Orleans embodies. But there are so many other possible entry points, too---culinary, social, historical, literary and architectural---all of them connected." With world-class hotels, unparalleled food and a plethora of attractions, joie de vivre and, of course, some spending money are all that are needed to experience and enjoy New Orleans.

Louisiana Lieutenant Governor Mitch Landrieu, in a Southern Edition interview published on November 20, 2006, stated, "Louisiana is America's greatest cultural destination, and is what we call 'The Soul of America.' It's a place that could be foreign to Americans and American to foreigners---a place that captures rich and diverse cultures in language, food, architecture, politics, arts, music and so much more, and brings it all together like great jazz."

If Louisiana is the "Soul of America," New Orleans is arguably the pulse of Louisiana.

Some of the state's finest institutions of higher learning---University of New Orleans, Louisiana State University Medical School and Tulane and Loyola Universities---are situated in the Crescent City. An important transportation center, New Orleans is also home to the state's busiest airport and one of the world's busiest shipping ports. And the city is a culmination of Louisiana's diverse cultures, races and ethnicities.

As distinct as its citizens, New Orleans' neighborhoods, districts and wards are unique and often historically significant, making a review of areas most frequented by tourists essential to any prospective visitor. Downtown includes the Central Business District (self-explanatory), the Vieux Carré, Tremé and Faubourg Marigny. Uptown's most traveled section is the Garden District.

The storied Vieux Carré (commonly referred to as the French Quarter) is the section of downtown located within the parameters of the Mississippi River, Esplanade Avenue, North Rampart Street and Canal Street. For many, this square mile area is the crux of New Orleans, and is unquestionably the most visited part of town.

Tremé, a predominantly African American community, was historically the primary portion of town in which free people of color lived. Today, it is home to the Louisiana Museum of African American History and Louis Armstrong Park (which contains historic Congo Square and the Mahalia Jackson Theatre of the Performing Arts). Mayor Ray Nagin is from Tremé.

Downriver from the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny is home to Elysian Fields Avenue, a street referenced in Tennessee Williams' A Streetcar Named Desire. Occupying land that once comprised the family plantation of 19th century developer Bernard Xavier Philippe de Marigny de Mandeville, this New Orleans neighborhood is approximately 200 years old, and was the birthplace of jazz performer Jelly Roll Morton.

Noted for its beautiful southern mansions and lush, century-old gardens, the Garden District was once a suburb settled by wealthy Anglo-Americans. It is located upriver from the Central Business District and French Quarter, and is easily accessible from downtown via St. Charles Avenue or Magazine Street.

Another Uptown feature is Audubon Park, a city park named in honor of former New Orleans resident and naturalist John James Audubon (who is most noted for painting, cataloguing and describing North America's birds). Sitting on former plantation property belonging to New Orleans' first mayor, Jean Étienne de Boré, the 340-acre expanse was used for the World's Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition of 1884-85. Located adjacent to Loyola and Tulane Universities and the Mississippi River, the park was designed by John Olmsted, father of Frederick Law Olmsted (whose handiwork includes New York's Central Park).

"Laissez les bon temps rouler" (or "Let the Good Times Roll")

In New Orleans, one can never be bored! The city is home to numerous festivals, exciting sports and entertainment and various attractions.

The Crescent City has hosted Super Bowls XXXI and XXXVI, various Olympic trials and other major sporting events like the 1994 National Gymnastics Championship. In addition to supporting the home games of the city's own major league teams, the Saints (NFL) and Hornets (NBA), New Orleanians can attempt to pacify their insatiable appetites for competition by attending horse racing's Louisiana Derby in March; the PGA's Zurich Classic in April; the Bayou Classic in November; and the New Orleans Bowl in December.

As for attractions, the Crescent City possesses many interesting and educational diversions in addition to its multitude of historical treasures. Foremost on any itinerary are the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, the Audubon Zoo and the National World War II Museum.

Though the Audubon Nature Institute's Aquarium of the Americas suffered significant damage and lost most of its 10,000 fish due to Hurricane Katrina, the popular riverfront attraction reopened in May 2006, having replenished its extensive animal collection and undergone millions of dollars in repairs.

Located within the confines of Audubon Park in Uptown, Audubon Zoological Gardens is one of the country's top-ranked zoos. Its residents include rare white tigers and white alligators. Guests of all ages are thrilled with the zoo's live animal presentations and hands-on animal encounters. An additional highlight is the zoo's Louisiana swamp exhibit.

A memorial and tribute to the group of Americans retired NBC news anchor Tom Brokaw has termed "The Greatest Generation," New Orleans' National World War II Museum (formerly the National D-Day Museum) celebrates the American Spirit and recalls the struggles and triumphs of the United States at a crucial juncture of its history.

Famous for great restaurants like Galatoire's, Antoine's, Arnaud's, Brennan's, Commander's Palace and celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse's decidedly upscale Emeril's Delmonico and his slightly informal NOLA, New Orleans is truly one of the world's renowned culinary centers. From breakfast at Brennan's to Café du Monde's delectable beignets (square French doughnuts) and chicory-flavored café au lait (half and half coffee and hot milk) to spicy Cajun fare at some unpretentious corner diner, Crescent City visitors can relish every indulgence and probably expect to gain a few pounds.

One hundred years old, yet ageless, Galatoire's is one of Bourbon Street's most distinguished landmarks. Family-owned and operated since its founding in 1905 by Jean Galatoire, this restaurant's bill of fare includes Chicken Clemenceau, Lamb Chops Bearnaise and Crabmeat Sardou. For decades, Galatoire's would not accept reservations, and its first floor policy remains first come, first served. Long lines have been known to stream down the block as diners, including some prominent personalities, have waited for a table. Some patrons with deep pockets have even been known to pay college kids to wait in their stead.

Antoine's Restaurant, 713 St. Louis Street, is America's oldest family-run restaurant. Established in 1840 by Antoine Alciatore, this dining center is situated in the heart of the Vieux Carré between Bourbon and Royal Streets, and is perhaps most famous for creating Oysters Rockefeller. So named because of the richness of the sauce, the dish is served at fine restaurants across the nation, but the original recipe invented by Jules Alciatore, the son of Antoine's founder, remains a closely guarded secret! Antoine's has enjoyed the patronage of British Royalty, Pope John Paul II, Walt Disney, Bing Crosby, Bob Hope, Elizabeth Taylor, Helen Keller, Tom Hanks, Whoopi Goldberg, Tom Cruise and the cast of the hit NBC sitcom Friends.

Established in 1918 by French wine salesman Arnaud Cazenave, Arnaud's, 813 Bienville Street (between Bourbon and Dauphine Streets), remains one of New Orleans' key destinations for classic Creole cuisine. Its extensive menu features dishes like Filet Mignon au Poivre, Roast Louisiana Quail Elzey, Pompano Duarte, Frog Legs Provencale, Crawfish O'Connor and an Arnaud's original, Oysters Bienville. Frequented by celebrities and dignitaries, Arnaud's offers a secret stairway in which some diners seeking discretion have entered, including George H. W. Bush on the night of his presidential nomination at the Republican National Convention in 1988. Arnaud's history is colorful and legendary. During prohibition, Cazenave (or Count Arnaud, as he was called) served alcoholic beverages (often under the guise of coffee), landing him in legal trouble. Upon his death, control of the restaurant succeeded to Germaine Wells, Cazenave's scandalous daughter and queen of 22 Mardi Gras balls.

At 416 Chartres Street, diners can experience K Paul's. Designed with an open-air kitchen, the restaurant contains no freezers because Chef Paul Prudhomme and his staff use only the freshest ingredients of the highest quality. Featuring first- and second-floor dining rooms, balconies and al fresco dining in the courtyard, the menu of this French Quarter establishment changes daily, but is likely to include sumptuous creations like Blackened Twin Beef Tenders Debris, Duck and Shrimp Dulac or Blackened Louisiana Drum.

At the gateway to the Vieux Carré, hungry diners can enjoy the casual, award-winning Red Fish Grill for lunch or dinner. Under the direction of Executive Chef R. Gregg Collier, the restaurant, located at 115 Bourbon Street, serves up a variety of dishes and does not limit itself to fish or seafood. Appetizers include Blue Crabcakes and Pepper Crusted Yellowfin Tuna. Alligator Sausage & Seafood Gumbo or Shrimp Rémoulade Salad further complements a list of tempting entrees that includes Cornmeal Crusted Farm-raised Catfish (served with corn macque choux, wilted arugula and red pepper tartar sauce) and Center Cut Bone-in Pork Chop (garlic rubbed & roasted, and served with goat cheese stone-ground grits and an apple-cranberry chutney). Destined to become a highlight of your New Orleans visit, Red Fish encourages walk-in dining and takes only a limited number of reservations.

Mother's, 401 Poydras Street, is a well-liked and reasonably priced Central Business District eatery where you're likely to be addressed as "baby," "darling" and "sweetheart." It helps to know some of the lingo to ensure you don't hold up the line. For example, "debris" is the roast beef that falls into the gravy while baking. "Black Ham" is the crisp, caramelized crust from Mother's ham. And a "dressed" po' boy implies that toppings of shredded cabbage, pickles, mayonnaise, Creole and yellow mustard have been added to a po' boy sandwich. Open seven days a week, the restaurant has no dress code and doesn't accept reservations. Come as you are . . . and come early. At breakfast, enjoy waffles, eggs and southern favorites like biscuits and grits. For an alternative breakfast experience, try a shrimp creole or red bean omelet. At lunch or dinner, feast on the Famous Ferdi Special (a dressed po' boy with baked ham, roast beef and gravy) or opt for other regional fare like turtle soup with sherry or the seafood platter with étoufée and jambalaya.

Relax in Comfort

"The French Quarter begins in the lobby of the Hotel Monteleone," it has been declared. One of only three hotels in the United States designated a literary landmark by the Friends of the Library Association, southern scribes Eudora Welty, Truman Capote and William Faulkner as well as novelist Ernest Hemingway and playwright Tennessee Williams have stayed at this historic, family-owned property located at 214 Royal Street. Other notable guests have included Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, B. B. King, Harry Belafonte and Wladziu Valentino Liberace. Named a Four-Diamond hotel by the American Automobile Association (AAA), Hotel Monteleone is a 3-time consecutive winner of the J. D. Power & Associates Award for Outstanding Customer Service, making it a superb choice for travelers who wish to be luxuriously pampered by an attentive staff in an atmosphere of elegance.

The tallest hotel in the Crescent City is the 48-floor Sheraton New Orleans. Featuring 1,110 guestrooms and 53 suites from which guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the Mississippi River and French Quarter, the hotel is particularly sought after by conventioneers because of its extensive meeting spaces. Highlights of the hotel include a fitness center, heated outdoor pool and rooftop Jacuzzi. Gourmet coffee addicts will especially take solace in the Sheraton's own Starbucks.

Another AAA Four-Diamond property is the Le Pavillon Hotel at 833 Poydras Street. Opened as the grand Hotel Denechaud in 1907, the hotel was designed by the New Orleans architectural firm of Toledano and Woggan, and featured the city's first hydraulic elevators and basement. Having undergone a major restoration in the 1970s, the hotel was renamed Le Pavillon, consummating its renaissance. Coupling modern conveniences with the genteel ambience and refined architecture of yesterday, Le Pavillon is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a member of Historic Hotels of America. Hotel features include Czechoslovakian crystal chandeliers in the lobby and handpainted vignettes on the ceilings of its deluxe rooms. The rooftop pool and patio and long-standing custom of serving peanut butter & jelly sandwiches with hot cocoa and milk each night at ten o'clock further contribute to this Vieux Carré hotel's uniqueness.

Le Richelieu in the French Quarter, 1234 Chartres Street, was proclaimed "The best quality buy in the French Quarter" by Travel and Leisure magazine. To suit a variety of lodging needs, the hotel's room options vary from standard single occupancy bedrooms to the VIP Suite which boasts three bedrooms and three baths. Guests can even stay in a suite named in honor of former hotel guest Paul McCartney. Besides choice accommodations, the hotel offers an array of amenities (including valet, baby sitting and multi-lingual assistance).

One of New Orleans' most interesting lodging locales is the Cornstalk Hotel, located at 915 Royal Street. The early 1800s home of French immigrant Francoise-Xavier Martin was so named because of its cornstalk wrought iron fencing. The fence was made by Philadelphia foundry Wood and Perot in 1850 for owner Dr. Joseph Biamenti (as a gift for his wife who was homesick for her beloved Midwest). Guests of this inn have ranged from Harriet Beecher-Stowe of Uncle Tom's Cabin fame to then-Professor Bill and Hillary Rodham Clinton. All rooms include private baths, cable television and wireless internet, and rates start at under $100 (at time of publication).

An Interview with Angele Davis

Greg Freeman: The effects of Hurricane Katrina have been devastating to Louisiana and New Orleans. While a slow recovery is underway, what measures are being taken to ensure that the state maintains its tourism cache?

Angele Davis: We have launched an aggressive $28.5 million advertising campaign entitled "Fall in Love with Louisiana All Over Again." The campaign features print ads and commercials featuring Louisiana celebrities such as Emeril Lagasse, John Goodman, Wynton Marsalis, Patricia Clarkson, David Toms, George Rodrigue and Allen Toussaint.

Hopelessly Romantic?

New Orleans is a quintessential setting for romance. Streets graced with moss-draped live oaks, wrought iron-adorned buildings and stately Greek Revival mansions are reminiscent of the Old South's New Orleans romanticized in literary works, plays and motion pictures.

Whether you and your soul mate are honeymooning or celebrating a landmark anniversary, countless options and amenities are at your beckoning.

As previously alluded, accommodations include everything from high-rise hotels with luxurious honeymoon suites to quaint French Quarter bed & breakfast inns with private balconies and charming courtyards.

A.D.: Nearly all of the city's great attractions are open, including the Audubon Nature Institute's Aquarium of the Americas and Zoo, the French Quarter, the French Market, shopping destinations (Magazine Street, the Riverwalk and The Shops at Canal Place), the New Orleans Museum of Art, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, the National World War II Museum, the Contemporary Arts Center, galleries throughout the Warehouse District, Mardi Gras World, steamboat cruises, horse and carriage rides, music clubs and more. With the reopening of Commander's Palace, nearly all of the city's major restaurants have reopened.

The New Orleans Saints have returned to a reopend Superdome. The adjacent New Orleans Arena has been reopened. All major events are back on the calendar including Art for Arts' Sake, the Bayou Classic, the Sugar Bowl, Mardi Gras, French Quarter Fest, Jazz Fest and scores of smaller festivals.

G.F: Why should travelers and meeting planners give New Orleans a second thought? What sets Louisiana and New Orleans apart from other southern destinations?

A.D.: As the "Soul of America," New Orleans offers a unique brand of food, music and culture that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world.

Today, New Orleans is the perfect destination for trade shows and conventions. As one of the most "walkable" cities in America, our Crescent City is home to world-class hotels, restaurants and venues. The Morial Convention Center recently completed a $60 million renovation. On Monday, September 25, 2006, the Louisiana Superdome reopened with Monday Night Football before a record-breaking national television audience and more than 70,000 cheering Saints fans. After $185 million in renovations, this iconic structure is back and ready for business.

G.F.: For a family contemplating a weekend getaway or the cost-conscious retired couple planning an affordable vacation, are there bargains to be had in New Orleans? Where should travelers turn for information when planning a trip to Louisiana or the Big Easy? What resources does the state offer?

A.D.: Louisiana hotel getaways are available from $216 per person. You can call 1-800-99-Gumbo or visit LouisianaTravel.com. The Louisiana Office of Tourism and the Department of Culture, Recreation and Tourism have partnered with Travelocity.com to provide consumers with a website that offers package deals including hotel and airfare to anywhere in Louisiana.

Savor the History

Established in 1718 by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville as Le Nouvelle-Orleans, New Orleans has seen its share of change and weathered many storms (quite literally!). Through it all, many important aspects of the city's illustrious history have been preserved. Multicultural influences are evident just as they were hundreds of years ago, and significant buildings still stand in spite of the city's growth and countless attempts to experience urban renewal and progress. A number of historic landmarks welcome curious tourists, offering great insight into the city's past.